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Crimp connectors AND Electrical tape
Hi all
For those rebuilding or repairing, these items can be a major source of problems and a breach of electrical safety.
Most common Problems re Crimps:
1: Crimps rated at 12v or 24v and not 240V or higher. See way too many use crimps that are meant for cars etc on 240v systems. PLEASE DON'T
2: People using cheep crimp pliers = Poor contact. Have not seen quality crimp pliers under $80.
3: Wiring not stripped correctly = Poor contact.
4: Wrong size crimp = Poor contact.
5: Not rated for high temp = Melt
Poor contact = hot spot = heat = high impedance = more heat = melt of crimp shield = carbonisation = conductive path >:D AND or wiring insulation melts = wires exposed = direct short = BANG >:D
All this can mean you might become an :angel:
Alex T had this and thus an element was shorting to ground via carbonised plastic.
I have also just fixed another and seen many in my time repairing systems where high currents and voltages are in use.
NOTE re Electrical tape:
Standard ELECTRICAL tape is also only good for handy man work. NOT any where near heating elements.
Just fixed an EM6910, where some one had removed the Si insulation on top of the Steam thermoblock and decided to ensure the terminals were insulated and did with plenty of electrical tape.
It lasted about 4 months. Started to trip the ELCB a few times BUT then went BANG and gave the user a mild shock and big fright .
Standard electrical tape is not rated for any heat, other than room temp. After that the glue fails and the tape just unwinds = it is crap.
In the case of Elements and heat, the tape then goes hard, then brittle, then melts = lots of carbonisation = short. No ELCB could mean you become :angel:
WARNING: Any electrical repairs should only be carried out by experienced and qualified persons. And that even means non electrical work that might expose electrical items in the area being worked on.
PS. An ELCB does not mean your 100% safe. It just manages the risks of specific situations.
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