Lever project - Urania 1 group

borat123

Koffee Kosmo wrote:

Have you got access to oxyacetylene equipment As I think its the best method for the brazing work It looks to me that is brazed on the photos KK

Ah, maybe that's the problem.... :🙂 Didn't realise I need oxy. I've only got a 'solid brass torch kit', disposable propane. The pack shows it being used for soldering... Will this do? http://www.bernzomatic.com/PRODUCTS/KITS/TORCHKITS/tabid/215/ctl/Detail/mid/1147/xmid/6964/xmfid/3/Default.aspx

Koffee_Kosmo

I dont think so and that torch is to wide It needs a pin point welding tip Brass needs about 450 deg C to melt But its also needs concentrated pinpoint heat Thats where the oxygen part comes in to the equation Oxygen facilitates the start of the concentrated melting point, once melting starts the rest of the metal follows Hope that is an understandable explanation KK Edit - After my post I did a search and found this info on Wiki I was spot on with my temperature http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brazing#Heating_methods

borat123

hmmm, sounds likes it might be cheaper to get it done by a fridge / aircon guy rather than to buy an oxy/acetylene set that I'm only going to use once or twice.

borat123

Anyone know a screen printer? I just found out how expensive this is onto glass..... I didn't realise, but the original paint on the glass is masked from the rear, except for the logo in the circle at the centre. So when it's illuminated from behind, the logo lights up... Looking now into getting it digitally printed, and / or mylar sticker (to cope with any heat).

Koffee_Kosmo

borat123 wrote:

Anyone know a screen printer? I just found out how expensive this is onto glass..... I didn't realise, but the original paint on the glass is masked from the rear, except for the logo in the circle at the centre. So when it's illuminated from behind, the logo lights up... Looking now into getting it digitally printed, and / or mylar sticker (to cope with any heat).

Possibly the local TAFE or an art student to paint an original KK

borat123

Just got my hands on a copy of the Faema Espresso 1945-2010 book. Wow, what a read, and the full page pics of the machines are of the highest quality. Schematics of the Zodiac group, shown with real actual parts! This also answered some questions I had with discrepancies I found during disassembly as compared to online schematic drawings from spare parts suppliers. Flicking through the pages it's been easy enough to identify my machine style to a Urania series 2, from 1955 onward. There's even a couple of photo's of that model sitting in what looks like the old Mr Whippy ice cream truck, which they used in the day as a promotional bus following the Giro d'Italia cyclists. All pics of this machine also show it solely with the old shell type of hood; so that answers that question. Lot's of bed-time reading for a while.... ;D

borat123

A big thanks to AM, who has kindly put his microsurgery skills to good use and made a new cup-tray-warmer-vent-control-knob for me! 🙂 ;D check it out: It will be front and centre on the restored Urania, and I think will fit in well with the completed resto. Thanks AM!!

Koffee_Kosmo

That's got to be better than the original Good job all round (pun intended) KK

Brett_H

Simply stunning! Great colour match and I bet it feels so much nicer than the dilapidated original.

borat123

AngerManagement wrote:

ANY time... Shame ya did not give be all the SS measurements etc may have just had some crap left over from trying to make a fishing gaff.

Hi AM, Ok ok, since you twisted my arm I guess I should tell you the measurements for the rod..... 😉 😉 4mm rod, 90 degree angle thanks 🙂

borat123

AngerManagement wrote:

Be done in 15 and posted on Monday some time... 😛 😛 😛 Have a great weekend

thanks mate. And you too. 🙂 cheers.

Ronin

AngerManagement wrote:

OK, item done... Ya need to be a little clearer as to measurements :-) With Lengths one need to be clear as to the start and stop... Never assume. As with bends, the issue is around the measurement from the inside or the outside of the bend :🙂 But I doubt in this case that it is critical.. Any way, only had some 4.7mm bar so machined it down on the ends and threadded and then added the bend... Ya 35mm may be a bit longer ;D Depending on where you measure from :-*

Just a tip AM ALWAYS WORK TO THE DRAWING Part is dimensioned on the outside, so work to the dimensions there I thought the drawing was clear, just missing the rod OD and the rad dimension. But again, we get down to the finicky bits that make us anal about the things we do Like coffee

borat123

Ronin, judging by all the smileys etc, I think AM was just wanting to be helpful... 🙂 🙂 I'm happy that he was kind enough to bother to undertake such a fiddly job, and my drawing was admittedly knocked up in powerpoint and pretty basic.. Anyway guys - I need some advice please. The setup on the Urania at the moment is an outlet at the top of the boiler runing to a t-piece, with one side going to the over pressure safety valve, and the other to the pstat. I'm thinking of replacing the T with a 3-way and adding an anti-vac into the mix. (please see another of my dodgy drawings below 😉). What do you think - any issue with having all three on the same line? (Or should I put it somewhere else?) cheers.

Koffee_Kosmo

I like the look of this none and it looks like it belongs to your machines design (see photo) KK

borat123

Thanks KK. It's a work of art..... Where'd you find that one? And, do think having the pstat and anti-vac together is ok?

Koffee_Kosmo

borat123 wrote:

Thanks KK. It's a work of art..... Where'd you find that one? And, do think having the pstat and anti-vac together is ok?

Just did an Google images search http://moonlightbrass.tradeindia.com/Exporters_Suppliers/Exporter35036.755432/Brass-3-Way-Fitting.html KK

borat123

AngerManagement wrote:

The all come off the tank, so it does not matter too much. Main thing is that many should be as vertical as you can make them. As to the Anti-vac make sure you use a "spill cup" to reduce any spillage from running out and around all your new work..

A tea light right AM? Now where did I see that thread...

Ronin

borat123 wrote:

Ronin, judging by all the smileys etc, I think AM was just wanting to be helpful... 🙂 🙂

And I was just making fun of him 😉 Sorry if my humor is lost online, it can be quite dry

borat123

Sounds like a latent humour failure somewhere along the line.... Hmmm, where's that fishbone chart for some root-cause analysis...?

borat123

Think I may have found a local company who for a reasonable price can digitally print onto glass, and then do a masking behind that so that light only shines through the logo & circle in the centre. I think my paint has faded a heap over 45 years. I've seen a pic of the original in the Faema book and it has a strong gold tint to it, whereas my old one looks like a tan brown.... I might get it done to match the pic from the book which looks a whole lot better anyway.

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