derrilex Hole was bored with a expanding cutter that I got from Carbatec. Pretty good price @ $50. It cuts from 22 mm to 76 mm with a max depth of 130 mm. Made in Japan, should be easy enough to sharpen the cutting bit. Based on the first hole in the ironbark I would say most other timbers would be easy to bore.
derrilex Need a big floor mount pedestall drill press though. Those small bench one wont cut the mustard with HP or depth
derrilex Update time. Ive cut the hole for the tamper and plugged the holes left at the bottom by the boring tool. Not as neat as I normally do things but it was the best match I had between spade bit and holesaw. I cut a piece about 5 mm thick then cut a button out using a hole saw with no drill bit. In hindsight I could have ground the spade bit down to the right diametre, which is what Ive done with most of my smaller bits to match my plug cutters. Ive sanded it down to 240 grit and now I'm not sure which way to turn - wet rub danish oil 800 grit ? poly ? water based poly ?. I'm pretty happy with the finish inside the bore and having made a drum sander I would in future cut the hole a bit smaller and finish to size with the drum. As it is now I'm on the limit and there are still a few marks in there but thats where they stay on this model. I'm not sure how to sand the bottom of the PF bore. Might go to bunnings (shiver) tomorrow and see whats around. I cant get my sausage fingers down there and it needs machine power to do anything positive. Anyway a few more piccys
Dry_bean We found a router with good sharp cutter and template to be the best and tidiest option. Another point, drill or cut a good size drain hole in the bottom or over time you will finish up with a sticky difficult to remove mess in the bottom of the block 😉
derrilex That would work if using smaller blocks that would be laminated later but there aint no router with 80 mm depth of cut.
derrilex Ok a few updates. This is mark II. After taking on board a comment that KK made earlier today I decided to perform surgery on the PF section. After that was done I thought a smaller tamper rest would be more subtle so off with its head. Fine sand and finish to go.
derrilex Only just got the handle cut out. Max depth on the router with the bit a long way out of the collets :-*
derrilex Turn my own ? Geez you are mad eh. I know this fella that loves working with hard bony timber. Makes him Howwwwwwwwlllllllllllllllllllll
Dry_bean derrilex wrote: That would work if using smaller blocks that would be laminated later but there aint no router with 80 mm depth of cut. Don't need 80mm 30mm is heaps, my router will handle that without effort.
derrilex Maybe 30 for a naked PF but with the spouts mine is 70 ish. I cut the bottom out aswell to make it easier to clean
Ronin Dry bean. wrote: Don't need 80mm 30mm is heaps, my router will handle that without effort. Remember that you can take more than one cut. I know plenty of other tradesmen that are missing fingers from routers, dangerous machines. As a tradie and OH&S rep I know just how dangerous exposed fast spinning blades can be. I would usually take 2 or 3 different cuts to get this depth with the router at work. The wood milling machine on the other hand..............
derrilex I took about 10 cuts to get to final depth. Little bit at a time as you do when free handing a big router. Whats your trade Ronin ?
Ronin 17 years as an Engineering Patternmaker Like a Toolmaker but with timber and fiberglass instead of metal.
derrilex Cool. I nearly did tool making as my first trade but got swallowed by the motor industry. Second trade was welding and fab, 3rd trade and current business is carpenter
RichardM Right. I redid it. Tamp stand V2.0 I'm still not happy with my woodwork skills. Made from old recycled Karri floorboards (hence the epoxy at the back because they are *just* not deep enough). I need better tools. All this was done with a drop saw, a dremel, and a $10 set of hole saws.
