KKTO - Outer pot, strainer, liner and insulation

ericshum

For those who are / plan to use a wiper motor, the following tutorial would give you a good idea of how the remaining 2 lines are used: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Ww5-pmiokc Don't think I'll use it personally. Don't need the park mode. Now I'm just short of an adaptor / socket from motor's shaft to a drive shaft then an agitator... Attempted socket set as suggested in Kelsey's KKTO Home Build thread but there's too much play and too little thread (6mm) for the socket to fit properly.

Koffee_Kosmo

If you have the capacity to 1 - grind a flat & drill the lower side of the socket 2 - and then add a screw to secure & lock it in to place on the motor shaft nut Then you will have height adjustment and security sorted thus eliminating floppy connections KK

ericshum

I'm thinking instead, use a smaller socket and grind down the nut till I get an interference fit. Don't have an angle grinder unfortunately.

ericshum

KK, with the agitator, is the S-shape really that important? if it is, do you have any recommended curvature radius from the top view? Attached is what I got so far for a flat agitator. Those dimensions look ok to you?

Koffee_Kosmo

The S shape was forged after many experiments of trial and error Once the desired agitation result was attained with the test unit - then this unit became the template of all blades On the kit blades - its 200mm length & the height is 60mm We also have the centre section cut out to allow the beans to pass through KK

ericshum

Hi KK, I don't have a pack of 1kg green beans to try pouring it into the colander to test its height yet but I was just wondering if 60mm height (side / middle?) is sufficient to be agitating the beans? Cheers, Eric

hiphipharar

EricS wrote:

I was just wondering if 60mm height (side / middle?) is sufficient to be agitating the beans?

I think weight rather than height may be your main concern, initially at least. Not all beans are the same size and 1kg of Ethiopian may not have the same depth as 1kg of Indian Monsooned Malabar, for example. The beans are somewhat heavy when added to the roaster. They will become lighter up the water is forced out of them during roasting but your motor needs to be able to move around that weight of beans. Also consider that beans expand as they roast, so a 6cm depth at the start may well be 10cm or more towards the end of the roast.

Koffee_Kosmo

EricS wrote:

Hi KK, I don't have a pack of 1kg green beans to try pouring it into the colander to test its height yet but I was just wondering if 60mm height (side / middle?) is sufficient to be agitating the beans? Cheers, Eric

The agitator blade as it is in the current measurements on you PDF drawing will be quite OK and up to the job (attached again) In fact its almost identical to the single blade design You only need to bend it for best operation in your roaster I have attached a photo of the current design blade The newest model also has a special laser cut on the bottom section to allow the spring to be fitted KK

Agitator-1.pdf

Beanz

Not sure if this is the correct thread, I have been looking at the Gilien Pasta pot as they are quite cheap at the moment. I note on the Wiki KKTO site it recommends a pot without rivetted handles. The Gilien has riveted handles and I am wondering if this is acceptable or if the rivets would prevent the liner going into the pot ? Any feedback would be appreciated

Koffee_Kosmo

Beanz wrote:

Not sure if this is the correct thread, I have been looking at the Gilien Pasta pot as they are quite cheap at the moment. I note on the Wiki KKTO site it recommends a pot without rivetted handles. The Gilien has riveted handles and I am wondering if this is acceptable or if the rivets would prevent the liner going into the pot ? Any feedback would be appreciated

The reason I recommend pots without rivets is that the insulation liner inset won't slide down the inside of the lower pot This can be overcome by making a false floor Another thing that all budding builders should note is that some perforated pots have a flexible or drumming base and are a little larger in diameter In this case the standard KKTO agitator blade may not suit For this I have another design made from spring wire and butterfly wing in shape I have photos of a couple wire type that I have created for some clients that supplied there own pots KK

Beanz

Thanks KK that all makes sense about getting the liner in. The problem I have run into is that apparentlty the Baccarat Entree range is no longer available despite still being on the web page. A couple of places tried to order it in for me but drew a blank. The Gilien is approx 25% of the price of the BE web site price. I had not appreciated the size variation of the inner pot on various 24x18 models. Is there a specific diameter to look for with the inner pot ? Only using a false floor would reduce the thermal properties the liner aims to achieve. Is there another brand available with the ideal dimensions to fit the liner? I may simply try to modify some other pot to achieve the same result One other point I have been wondering about, do small beans get caught or drop through the holes in the pasta pot, some of the ones I saw when I was hunting around seemed to have large holes

Koffee_Kosmo

The handles of the lower pot can also be removed if you want to go that far, as that will give one a smooth restriction free surface for the insert liner to slide into place. No beans fall through the perforated insert holes as the hole size is to small The liner available from the KKTO shop, is approx 23.9 cm diameter KK

Beanz

Thanks for that I had not appreciated it was such a tight fit

Koffee_Kosmo

Beanz wrote:

Thanks for that I had not appreciated it was such a tight fit

I wouldn't make it any other way Having said that, some pot sets can be slightly smaller In this case the top rim of the insulating liner can be removed and that should give you 2mm extra clearence to play with in pot sizes KK

ericshum

KK, I've attached the shaft and motor adapter drawings. The motor adaptor is spun by the motor which in turn spins the shaft if the grub screws are screwed in locking the shaft to the motor adaptor.

Motor Adaptor.PDF
Shaft.PDF

Koffee_Kosmo

EricS wrote:

KK, I've attached the shaft and motor adapter drawings. The motor adaptor is spun by the motor which in turn spins the shaft if the grub screws are screwed in locking the shaft to the motor adaptor.

This how I did it The shaft comes in from under the perforated pot and stops at the collar It also has a square shaft to marry up the square hole in the drive motor This allows the connection point of shaft and motor to slip in and out The agitator with springs holds it in place [attach=1] [attach=2] Photo from the upside down roast chamber (perforated pot) and agitator blade top view And the motor drive connection [attach=3] [attach=4] this is a close up view of the fitted motor all you see is the square drive gear See drive shaft Drawing below to give you a better idea [attach=5] [attach=6] KK

ericshum

Hi KK, yeah, our mistake was with not having a 'square drive'. It would have been much better if the motor adaptor had a square slot. We'll have to figure out a solution around this now. =(

Koffee_Kosmo

EricS wrote:

Hi KK, yeah, our mistake was with not having a 'square drive'. It would have been much better if the motor adaptor had a square slot. We'll have to figure out a solution around this now. =(

Use a socket from a cheap 1/4 drive set KK

derrilex

Eric, have a look at the hybrid thread

ericshum

Not sure where the hybrid thread is but just looking at the ringtail carpentry gave me the impression that a woodpiece would be indeed a good idea. I could sand possibly sand wood down to fabricate a socket. Thanks.

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