After the old forum software breaking in a way that we were unable to fix, we've migrated the site to a new platform.
Some elements aren't working as we'd hoped - some avatars didn't survive the transition, and we're still having issues with attachments that weren't added as inline images, but we're hoping to have that all sorted out soon.
True! its a fluke when you cut them exactly right like this one to reveal the in-flow and make maximum shadowing/chatoyancy of the fortifications but I got lucky. Polishing was a cinch on the flat lap because the weight is perfectly distributed given that it's a sphere. This is the reason we shoot full frame. Every extra bit of detail in the shadows counts!
Just took a shot of my coffee trees ripe and ready to pick cherries I pick them when the get to the riper maroon hue It's a Queensland thing And the dog we are baby sitting with more than a mouthful He stole our dogs bone KK
Just took a shot of my coffee trees ripe and ready to pick cherries I pick them when the get to the riper maroon hue It's a Queensland thing And the dog we are baby sitting with more than a mouthful He stole our dogs bone KK
True! its a fluke when you cut them exactly right like this one to reveal the in-flow and make maximum shadowing/chatoyancy of the fortifications but I got lucky. Polishing was a cinch on the flat lap because the weight is perfectly distributed given that it's a sphere. This is the reason we shoot full frame. Every extra bit of detail in the shadows counts!
very cool Brett. I'm sure the glass has more to do with it than the sensor size [emoji108]
Bit of both mate. The dynamic range is where it's at for us.
hate to say it the d7200 has +0.1EVS dynamic range on the d750 - 14.6 to 14.5. [emoji13] Pretty close but the d750 retains its sharpness at extremely higher ISOs so low light photography the d750 will shine through its pants!
Carefull fellas....this is a nikon thread and you are starting to sound like Leica fanboys :stir Just been looking at the last three photos again and there is no doubt about it. Brett that stone is HOT, and I love the dog and coffee cherries courtesy of KK
BS aside....its amazing just how much pleasure you can derive from your camera (all 1.6 kg of my big one with heaviest lens). I often lug the thing around with me when going down the farm to do something (as you have seen), and I take an aweful lot of shots that get deleted. But you have to use it or you lose it as they say. No better way to learn.
BS aside....its amazing just how much pleasure you can derive from your camera (all 1.6 kg of my big one with heaviest lens). I often lug the thing around with me when going down the farm to do something (as you have seen), and I take an aweful lot of shots that get deleted. But you have to use it or you lose it as they say. No better way to learn.
Spot on FC. I also lug it around even though my wife says leave it at home. I don't listen to her anyways but I do tend to make myself look like a pro-tog to avoid looking like a tourist that has their expensive dslr set on auto mode. [emoji38] I've also taken some pretty amazing iPhone 6 shots too. It's got a very capable camera. Pic attached of a sunset (Bali shot from Lombok -even though you cannot see Bali due to clouds). The dynamic range was very good and I was able to recover some of the detail in post processing in the jpg.
Leica.... If only I had the money and the ocular impairment to not realise I'd wasted the money.... SHOTS FIRED! Err... GK.. I'm not doubting your figures but having shot both side by side the bigger pixels of the 750 resolve more detail in gemstones. I don't know why... my experience is with both formats and both have their merits which is why I still shoot a D200 in bright light and long reach!
So who has played around with long exposure landscape photography (during the day). Post your experiences. I'm planning a long exposure sunset shoot sometime this month with a few mates. Here's my new black glass. 10stops 82mm. Brand is Benro. They mainly do tripods and other photo hardware and now also filters. It's pretty comparable to a Hoya filter at half the price.
Wow.... That's dark! I had no idea they made filters!
as dark as they come for a screw on. The only way to go darker is by stacking square filters (say 150mm squares) in a Lee holder. Or use a CPL and screw on ND and then you have 11stops. Any more than 2 screw in filters and vignetting will be an issue. Picked my filter up for $50 from http://photo-shop-studio.com.au Colour cast is minor (actually less than a B&w filter at 10 stops) and sharpness is great. There is some vignetting (corrected in post) with the ultra wide angle lens (as expected) due to the lens elements sticking out like bubbles but on my other two lenses it's fine. With 10 stops a 1/20 exposure becomes around 60seconds so shoots are done mainly in bulb mode at iso100. With the CPL filter on top it becomes a 2 minute exposure.
That's very cool. My wife wanted to get a variable filter at one stage but we figured stacking was a better idea so you have the option of controlling polarisation. What do people think about graduated filters for landscape? Worth it or are cameras dynamic ranges good enough these days?
That's very cool. My wife wanted to get a variable filter at one stage but we figured stacking was a better idea so you have the option of controlling polarisation. What do people think about graduated filters for landscape? Worth it or are cameras dynamic ranges good enough these days?
Hi mate. GNDs are worth it if you're serious about landscapes or just do multiple exposures (metering for sky and ground) / bracketing and do a HDR in post processing. In saying that the DR of camera sensors nowadays are pretty good and you might get away with it (a single shot without a GND filter) in some shoots where you can apply a GND effect in post processing on the RAW file. Just don't shoot JPG for that as you loose too much information with that compressed file type.
As this thread seems to meander around the subject of full frame gear irrespective of brand, thought I would mention I was just having a look around one of the photo forums and came across an interesting thread with this link to another site: http://www.digitalphotomentor.com/7-questions-to-ask-before-you-upgrade-full-frame-camera-body/?utm_source=Digital+Photo+Mentor&utm_campaign=879a480a29-DPM_Blog_Broadcast&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_ec33f1d0c3-879a480a29-263023941&mc_cid=879a480a29&mc_eid=874d580825 (feel free to remove if it contravenes our site posting policies here). Theses days consumerism has not much to do with "need" and much more to do with "want" and affordability. Certainly we see that in my industry, and its no different with camera gear. The link is a quick to read and straight talking guide on whether anyone "needs" full frame gear or not. One thing not mentioned, is the difference in functionality between bottom end and top end gear, although it is covered indirectly in the advice that rather than updating from entry level to pro level, stepping up a couple of steps along the way may suffice for most people. Anyway, thought it was interesting. Enjoy.
Good find FC!! I went full frame because the camera I really wanted happen to be full frame D800). Now, not dissimilar to brand allegiance I'm stuck in that format. I'm not complaining. I still use the D200 with its 18-200VR lens and its DX format... But, if it dies tomorrow I won't miss it.
I chose a crop sensor mainly because I couldn't justify the price of a full frame body and glass to go with it. My first dslr was a canon eos 6mp crop. A full frame 35mm camera will just cost me money and won't make me any. Instead I carefully selected a Nikon model d7200 that has awesome sensor (ISO capability and dynamic range) and AF capabilities so the only my thing I'm missing out on (imo) is DOF and a stop of light compared to a full frame body. I did consider the Canon 7Dii but i don't do sports photography so didnt need 10frames per second shoot speed. Is also considered the Sony a7ii full frame Mirrorless but the EVF is just shocking for me to use. Don't like it at all. That was the deal breaker for me. That plus the lack of glass choice and if you use third party lenses with an adapter it defeats the purpose of a light and compact body. Maybe one day I'll get the Pentax 645Z medium digital format if I go pro (cough cough) and get paid to do it. But first I'll need to work on my forearm strength to lug a beast like that around. In my circle of friends there is one pro shooter and he uses a Fuji XT1 Mirrorless (16MP crop sensor) for most work (weddings, business portraits, street) but for serious stuff he shoots film, and I'm not talking 35mm, that's a small format. The main thing is do what makes you happy but with all things that we want and acquire we are always looking for the next upgrade.
Two things today. a) for those that may have an interest...yesterday DWI digital warehouse were having a special on nikon speedlights. I think they let the specials run a couple of days before reverting to regular price. b) will be heading off to HOST in a week (worlds premier coffee equipment expo, held every 2 years). It's indoors in a huge well lit exhibition centre, & this time I'm thinking of "splurging" on a cheap 50 mm prime lens to take, for 2 reasons: i) weight saving factor. If I take the 24-70mm zoom I get a sore neck & shoulders for my trouble (lens weighs 800 grams on top of camera body) to carry around for 4 days, for very few actual shots taken (its an exhibition, not a sight seeing tour / vacation where you have the camera shooting at every opportunity). For taking product/person/stand shots in the exhibition, a "nifty 50" at somewhere less than 150 grams should suffice. ii) The zoom is an f2.8 so no trouble shooting inside a well lit exhibition hall. But a nifty 50 at f1.8 will be "better". Actually...there is also the 40 mm f2.8 prime to look at. Might be better for tight posis in exhibition stands....and maybe not... Opinions, thoughts?
Two things today. a) for those that may have an interest...yesterday DWI digital warehouse were having a special on nikon speedlights. I think they let the specials run a couple of days before reverting to regular price. b) will be heading off to HOST in a week (worlds premier coffee equipment expo, held every 2 years). It's indoors in a huge well lit exhibition centre, & this time I'm thinking of "splurging" on a cheap 50 mm prime lens to take, for 2 reasons: i) weight saving factor. If I take the 24-70mm zoom I get a sore neck & shoulders for my trouble (lens weighs 800 grams on top of camera body) to carry around for 4 days, for very few actual shots taken (its an exhibition, not a sight seeing tour / vacation where you have the camera shooting at every opportunity). For taking product/person/stand shots in the exhibition, a "nifty 50" at somewhere less than 150 grams should suffice. ii) The zoom is an f2.8 so no trouble shooting inside a well lit exhibition hall. But a nifty 50 at f1.8 will be "better". Actually...there is also the 40 mm f2.8 prime to look at. Might be better for tight posis in exhibition stands....and maybe not... Opinions, thoughts?
hi FC. what camera do you have. I personally would take a prime. For a full frame camera take a 50mm but it might be a little tight so possibly a 35mm. For a crop sensor either a 35mm (50mm equivalent) or go a little wider. I would go for a 1.8 not just for the low light performance but for the bokeh... And it's light. The other option is to take your zoom but don't use a neck strap but instead use a sling or sling the neck strap over your shoulder to take the strain off your next.
Ah yes, theres the rub... Not willing to spend much on a (for most of the time) unnecessary (for me) lens ( I dont do portaits). So it would at best get used once every two years for a few days, at this exhibition. So around $150.00 for the basic nifty fifty is all it needs thrown at it at this time. Put it on full frame (5D Mk2) and as you say there may be some instances where it will be a bit tight. Put it on APS-C (1100D) and it does get tight, so would go for some other wider prime. But that starts to increase the budget for something I wont use much...). Leaving me with the 50mm on full frame as a nice compromise OR, forget it entirely and take the 24 to 70 zoom and not worry about the weight factor.... Actually that will work. Use the 50mm on full frame at exhibition, and take the 24-105 F4 as my usual travel lens for sight seeing outside of exhibition. Leave 24-70 at home this time.... decisions, decisions.... No?
Ah yes, theres the rub... Not willing to spend much on a (for most of the time) unnecessary (for me) lens ( I dont do portaits). So it would at best get used once every two years for a few days, at this exhibition. So around $150.00 for the basic nifty fifty is all it needs thrown at it at this time. Put it on full frame (5D Mk2) and as you say there may be some instances where it will be a bit tight. Put it on APS-C (1100D) and it does get tight, so would go for some other wider prime. But that starts to increase the budget for something I wont use much...). Leaving me with the 50mm on full frame as a nice compromise OR, forget it entirely and take the 24 to 70 zoom and not worry about the weight factor.... Actually that will work. Use the 50mm on full frame at exhibition, and take the 24-105 F4 as my usual travel lens for sight seeing outside of exhibition. Leave 24-70 at home this time.... decisions, decisions.... No?
Get the 50mm 1.8g. Recent reviews shows that it outperforms the 1.8d in terms of the creaminess of the bokeh and sharpness. It also has aspherical lens elements which the 1.8d doesn't. THe 1.8g is also an afs lens which means that it works on cheaper Nikon bodies that don't have the body motor to drive auto-focus. You can also use it on a crop sensor and you have a very nice portrait lens of 75mm equivalent field of view. Take that with you at the expo and test it out. If you find after day one it's not wide enough take your zoom the next day or get creative with your feet while using the 50mm. If the 50mm doesn't work for you its only $250 and I'm sure you can sell it on eBay for over $200 with the invoice and warranty (just don't register the lens with mynikonlife.com.au if you plan to sell it - leave that to the new owner) Just a few thoughts.
and..... i just re-read that FC is using a Canon... lol,, not a Nikon... just goes to show that my speed reading needs improvement... my advice still applies, use a 50mm
Hey GK, all good and yes I have decided tio buy the 50 mm! Thanks for your thoughts
I have used the 50mm 1.2 and it's wonderful but heavier. I'd be going for the 1.4! The Nikon don't have a 1.2 in the nifty fifties and opt for a 58mm1.4 as their premium offering. It's quite frankly a useless lens so I settled on the 1.4g. I took mine to Sydney with the kids recently and it was perfect for most situations. I'm checking out the 28mm 1.8 but I fear it will be a bit wide for my liking.
Comments