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Custom Tamping block - phew

edited January 1970 in Accessories
Ok, before every one gets carries away. There are a few things that have to be understood.


Needs to be visually pleasing and to be functional; manage space and be interchangeable to manage upgraditus and different PF's.



1: As DB pointed out... With a few tools any one can make a tamping station.


2: It does not have to be round and nor does the hole.


3: At least TWO main PF lug styles - Again a pattern can cover off on both


4: Way to many spouts to try to make a super neat fancy internal fit AND this is where every thing comes unstuck.


The unit DB has is custom for that single spout and PF lugs and thus looks great....


In an effort to cater for shallow spouts and deep ones and both forward and rear mounted spouts, one has to in effect just make a deep hole.  The side effect is that it no longer looks as neat or as classy as the one DB posted.


Thus it comes down to a 72mm dia hole @ 80mm deep with extra long recess slots on top for the lugs, to cover off on east / west VS 2 and 8  AND a cut-out to take the spigot.


So unless there are numbers  of units that require exactly the same features and all PF are identical, getting some one to do a CNC run to make them all classy, is not viable.  Unless SS's OH gets his CNC running and does for FREE  :-*


NOTE: For the home DIY...


Get a quality hole saw that will do 70mm - 72mm.  Now as these will usually do 25mm to 30mm deep the following will give you an idea.


Get two blocks of timber the size you want  (approx 110 x 110 x 40 for a square or  approx 110 x 200 x 40 if ya want a tamp stand as well). Have a bottom plate of same size but only 5mm or 10mm thick.


Mark out the main hole and one edge to be 10mm from the hole, this is where the spigot will sit. Make your  hole by going as deep as you can and then rolling the block over and coming in from the other side.  Then place over the second piece and mark out and then do that one, in the same manner.


Needless to say, with a bit of DIY and thought; you can work out how to do the lug recess and cut the spigot slot.


From there it is a simple matter to glue and clamp the two blocks and the base plate then sand and finish off to your desire...


If feeling really adventurous - Do a long run and make two holes to hold both PF's and a 3rd recess to hold your tamp....


At the end of the day it is only YOU that is holding you back.... Be adventurous and give it a go, you may surprise your self...



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Comments

  • Challenge accepted. Ive got some 100 year old ironbark posts I pulled from a house at Wooloongabba. Better sharpen the tools.
  • on 1326880427:
    Challenge accepted. Ive got some 100 year old ironbark posts I pulled from a house at Wooloongabba. Better sharpen the tools.
    Got any spare for my Strega woodifcatioin project I am only a stones through away KK
  • Ok. The first prototype is ready for sanding and finishing. I'll probably make this a dual unit and cut another hole for the tamper. It was very hard timber and quite slow going so as not to overheat the cutting tool. The hole is just under 72 mm in diametre and 77 mm deep. Its going to be a PITA to sand inside the bore but thems the breaks. Apologies for the crap photos and yep the timber is really that red. If you look at the growth rings and imagine how big a circle they would make you can guess how big the tree was - mighty large
  • Beautiful reclaimed timber derrilex Beautiful grain and my favourite red timber tone  :thumb: Looking good so far & I know it will be fantastic when finished KK
  • Since you will be spinning it  8) what do you want ? Shall I just quarter it and go about 350 / 400 long ? I think KK wants his handle 200 ish ?  I need some advice re finishes too
  • That will give about 43 square
  • I'll give it a go. Pretty hard to mount/hold that length and drill end grain. Can you stick it the lathe with a centre ?
  • That reclaimed timber brings a tear to my eye.  I do love timber.  Great job!  How did you bore your hole?  I have a drill press and a router but seasoned hardwood may beat them.
  • Hole was bored with a expanding cutter that I got from Carbatec. Pretty good price @ $50. It cuts from 22 mm to 76 mm with a max depth of 130 mm. Made in Japan, should be easy enough to sharpen the cutting bit. Based on the first hole in the ironbark I would say most other timbers would be easy to bore.
  • Thanks mate, they look great and they are something I've never come across.  Cheers!
  • Need a big floor mount pedestall drill press though. Those small bench one wont cut the mustard with HP or depth
  • Update time. Ive cut the hole for the tamper and plugged the holes left at the bottom by the boring tool. Not as neat as I normally do things but it was the best match I had between spade bit and holesaw. I cut a piece about 5 mm thick then cut a button out using a hole saw with no drill bit. In hindsight I could have ground the spade bit down to the right diametre, which is what Ive done with most of my smaller bits to match my plug cutters. Ive sanded it down to 240 grit and now I'm not sure which way to turn - wet rub danish oil 800 grit ?  poly ? water based poly ?. I'm pretty happy with the finish inside the bore  and having made a drum sander I would in future cut the hole a bit smaller and finish to size with the drum. As it is now I'm on the limit and there are still a few marks in there but thats where they stay on this model. I'm not sure how to sand the bottom of the PF bore. Might go to bunnings (shiver) tomorrow and see whats around.  I cant get my sausage fingers down there and it needs machine power to do anything positive. Anyway a few more piccys
  • We found a router with good sharp cutter and template to be the best and tidiest option. Another point, drill or cut a good size drain hole in the bottom or over time you will finish up with a sticky difficult to remove mess in the bottom of the block ;)
  • That would work if using smaller blocks that would be laminated later but there aint no router with 80 mm depth of cut.
  • My attempt using a few scraps of Karri floorboards I had lying around. I suck at woodwork :(
  • Ok a few updates. This is mark II. After taking on board a comment that KK made earlier today I decided to perform surgery on the PF section. After that was done I thought a smaller tamper rest would be more subtle so off with its head. Fine sand and finish to go.
  • Yep very nice  :thumb: A level and secure PF is the key to better preparation KK
  • Only just got the handle cut out. Max depth on the router with the bit a long way out of the collets  :-*
  • Turn my own ? Geez you are mad eh. I know this fella that loves working with hard bony timber. Makes him Howwwwwwwwlllllllllllllllllllll
  • on 1327194196:
    That would work if using smaller blocks that would be laminated later but there aint no router with 80 mm depth of cut.
    Don't need 80mm 30mm is heaps, my router will handle that without effort.
  • Maybe 30 for a naked PF but with the spouts mine is 70 ish. I cut the bottom out aswell to make it easier to clean
  • I gave KK a spare blank and a heap of other smaller ones and a few bits of firewood  :rofl:
  • on 1327279663:
    Don't need 80mm 30mm is heaps, my router will handle that without effort.
    Remember that you can take more than one cut. I know plenty of other tradesmen that are missing fingers from routers, dangerous machines. As a tradie and OH&S rep I know just how dangerous exposed fast spinning blades can be. I would usually take 2 or 3 different cuts to get this depth with the router at work. The wood milling machine on the other hand..............
  • I took about 10 cuts to get to final depth. Little bit at a time as you do when free handing a big router. Whats your trade Ronin ?
  • 17 years as an Engineering Patternmaker Like a Toolmaker but with timber and fiberglass instead of metal.
  • Cool. I nearly did tool making as my first trade but got swallowed by the motor industry. Second trade was welding and fab, 3rd trade and current business is carpenter
  • Right. I redid it. Tamp stand V2.0 I'm still not happy with my woodwork skills. Made from old recycled Karri floorboards (hence the epoxy at the back because they are *just* not deep enough). I need better tools. All this was done with a drop saw, a dremel, and a $10 set of hole saws. tampstand1.jpg tampstand2.jpg tampstand3.jpg
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