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After the old forum software breaking in a way that we were unable to fix, we've migrated the site to a new platform.

Some elements aren't working as we'd hoped - some avatars didn't survive the transition, and we're still having issues with attachments that weren't added as inline images, but we're hoping to have that all sorted out soon.

Azkoyen Bravo Compact E2 2 Group - rebuild

SystemSystem
edited January 1970 in Projects & Rebuilds
Yes... KK said NO...  BUT...

Azkoyen Bravo Compact E2 2 Group.  Got at  very good $ and in very clean condition and only missing the thin screen that sits into the tray area.

TWO problems.

A:  Some half smart DIY person had a play...
B:  2 of the 3 elements are as good as blown. Not quite Open cct but might as well.

Access to parts appears to be the main problem, with some being available from the USA and the UK but having problems tracking down any one local.

If any one out their has contacts or knows where I could grab and element; It would be a great help.


OH...  as to half smart... 

A:  15A cord was cut and using exposed connectors a 10A  lead and plug was attached !!!

B:  One of the power lines to one leg of an element, had worn on the water pump and shorted at some stage, so some adorable  electrical tape was used to bind all the power cables together

C: Because they guessed or were not sure about the elements being Open cct and one side leaking to Earth causing ELCB trips. They tried guessing  and reconnected up all wrong. 

Not that it would have mattered as with two elements open cct and both of these having one side shorting under voltage test. The system would also trip the ELCB... 

Their trick was to run it from a non protected power point.


Then they sold it to an un suspecting fellow and after a few close calls; I have now obtained.


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  • LacehimLacehim
    Sounds like a death trap.  I seriously wonder how some folk survive doing stuff like this! Nice pickup but don't get too distracted from that lever AM ;)
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  • RoninRonin
    I had to get a custom made element for the GS. Wasn't too bad either IMOP. You might even remember the brew element you saw in the machine, but prob don't as there was other electrical issues that I believe to be fixed. Place a Bowen Hills called Cynebar. Abbotsford rd. Can't hurt to get a quote.
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  • UNMUNM
    on 1332229651:
    UNM:  You need an element ?  Maybe a better $ if I get 2 units  :thumb:
    One leg of my element is definitely buggered so yes, a new element. FYI, places that might help out: M&C espresso repairs - I emailed them once ages ago, but never heard back. Not sure if they still stock parts as their web site has all parts at $0. Diamond coffee equipment in Thomastown - was suggested to call them by Craig at 9Bar last year when I last spent time on my Bravo. Eunasa in Europe, not sure if they will ship to Aus. AM - if you get pricing on elements (and gaskets) let me know. I can always make a gasket myself, but might be better to buy one if available. Oh and my original thread was at http://coffeesnobs.com.au/YaBB.pl?num=1297983927
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  • derrilexderrilex
    So, has Mrs. AM forgiven you yet  :rofl: Just whack a cheat lead on it, she be right  ??? :rofl:
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  • UNMUNM
    So what is the special lever? Think I missed reading about that that one.
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  • Koffee_KosmoKoffee_Kosmo
    As an overseas purchase you can ask for the VAT to be removed from the price And I did say - NO - Dont do it  :tearhair: KK
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  • Brett HBrett H
    on 1332242736:
    As an overseas purchase you can ask for the VAT to be removed from the price And I did say - NO - Dont do it  :tearhair: KK
    Nice one AM!  I've always wanted a machine for the deck.  My only worry would be inclement weather and dust.  Is there a better option than a drop-sheet and canvas cover out there?
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  • derrilexderrilex
    New market . Funky timber machine covers for those spoiled err... I mean lucky enough to have a machine for the deck  :rofl:
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  • Brett HBrett H
    on 1332277146:
    New market . Funky timber machine covers for those spoiled err... I mean lucky enough to have a machine for the deck  :rofl:
    Gorgeous.  Considered this when igad the splendor replacing the Perspex sides.  Mistrals look out!!!
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  • KelseyKelsey
    I've been watching that cremina on eBay with morbid fascination. Can't get it (doghouse) but boy does it tickle my fancy. AM, quit with the howling already.
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  • UNMUNM
    Guess I better order tomorrow then in case they only have one left. :stir
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  • LwowiakLwowiak
    on 1332317950:
    I've been watching that cremina on eBay with morbid fascination. Can't get it (doghouse) but boy does it tickle my fancy. AM, quit with the howling already.
    Out of curiosity, does anyone have any hands on experience with a Cremina? Are they worth the dollars?
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  • Brett HBrett H
    on 1332510861:
    I will tell you shortly  :rofl: No Springs, simple but like every thing; a little tuning and understanding of the process.
    CALL ME... Jealous!!!  Seriously, are we having a working be at the AM shed to construct a dog house Amish style?? 
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  • derrilexderrilex
    I think you mean a dog barn ? If it was to have any Amish authenticity we would have to " raise" it in a day, without the traditional carton of beer for getting the lid on  :laugh: It would also have to be large enough to accomodate mulitple outcasts.
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  • Koffee_KosmoKoffee_Kosmo
    on 1332545241:
    CALL ME... Jealous!!!  Seriously, are we having a working be at the AM shed to construct a dog house Amish style?? 
    on 1332547640:
    I think you mean a dog barn ? If it was to have any Amish authenticity we would have to " raise" it in a day, without the traditional carton of beer for getting the lid on  :laugh: It would also have to be large enough to accomodate mulitple outcasts.
    I will be there to help And if its for multiple outcasts it can become a club  ;D KK
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  • UNMUNM
    Might well be looking at diff things, but, here is top of my boiler.
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  • UNMUNM
    Photos of probe and controller Top right connection is boiler, top left is probe - I think (90% sure). They cable tie the wires at multiple poin tr s to make it hard. My dvm is dead.
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  • UNMUNM
    on 1333242735:
    Tap that is set back on L/H side; is the boiler drain.  BEWARE that this should only be opened when the boiler is COLD. If under full pressure, then Steam and hot water could easily burn who ever opens it !!! Tap at front R/H side is the Quick fill option.  After full, then close this tap.  The Fill solenoid and fluid cct will then work as normal. 
    I remember Tek on CS warning me about the drain tap. He said to remove the lever from it to avoid accidents. Edit. Added a couple photos. My workbench after the late night fiddling around and dismantling of azkoyen A better pic of controller module. Yes, it is j10, same as AMs
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  • UNMUNM
    Element and gasket are on their way. Hopefully with me tomorrow.
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  • UNMUNM
    Got my new element today, drained boiler and removed old one. Definitely faulty! Now I know where the corrosion around the connectors and gasket came from.
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  • UNMUNM
    Been a busy couple of days chez UNM. Due to signs of long term weeping around the HX top connection, I took the plunge and disconnected one of the brass fittings (standard screw connection). Wrapped thread seal PTFE tape on the fitting and reassembled in the hope this will fix the leak. If good, I will do the other one later. If I made it worse, I have only buggered up one side. This morning I staggered out to the driveway and dumped the azky on its back, then propped up to get reasonable drainage from the boiler and gave the inside a good old rinse out with a hose and fine needle jet nozzle. Be careful if doing this sort of thing - it may be a compact, but still weighs around 50kg. There was no noticeable hard scale (good old melbourne water and it also presumably ran on a filter). Quite a bit of grey sludge in the bottom of the boiler though - could be related to the blown and corroded element Fitted the new element, tightened everything up, checked out all functions except the heating. All good, autofill working fine, volumetric buttons working. One thing though - when I powered up, the pump ran for approx 20 seconds, then the LED on the front panel (next to power switch) started flashing. Fault code perhaps? It did this several times, until the tank was filled and since then has been fine. I assume that it expects a maximum run time for the pump and triggers a fault if pump runs too long. The LED on the Gicar controller always flashes, so I assume that is normal. Hooked up the element this afternoon in between jobs - machine now runs at choice of 1200W or 2400W (one leg of element unused). Pstat is set to cut power at 1.2bar and comes back on at 0.97. Duty cycle was 35 secs on, 2 mins off. Slight weeping from the HX connection I worked on :(, but it seems to have stopped after the machine fully up to temp. Time will tell. Pulled a few shots with some stale grounds I keep lying around for seasoning shots. Definitely needs different dosing to my little gaggia classic, so that will affect grind setting, shouldn't take too long to dial it in though. Backflushed both groups (4 times) to get rid of the old crud. Definitely runs hot and needs a cooling flush, will need to learn how long is required. Managed to get the shower screen out of one group when it was hot - just gently levered it and the screen came out along with the group seal (which is in pretty fair condition). I may pull a drinkable shot tomorrow if the planets align for me.
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  • UNMUNM
    Got an acceptable ristretto shot yesterday! I was trying for straight espresso, but still getting the hang of the machines idiosyncrasies. The pump needs adjusted and there is a weird motor  issue. Previously machine was plumbed in. currently running off bucket, so I am pretty sure pump pressure needs a boost. How to increase pressure? There is a brass dome nut on the pump housing. Do I unscrew this to get access to adjust? Sometimes when the pump tries to start I just get a constant hum, but no pump rotation. A stop/start of the switch usually gets it running. Past experience with induction motors I have only seen this with a blown capacitor, and it has been hard fault rather than intermittent. Any ideas?
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  • mycuppamycuppa
    UNM, sorry if I have not read the thread if it's mentioned previously, but have you descaled the pump ? Most rotary pumps are of 2 types (Gino Rossi or Procon) and they are very similar and simple in design. Generally, no adjustment is necessary. Rotary pumps can run from a bucket for short intervals/short term OK. They obviously work easier with mains head pressure. If you can separate the pump from the motor, then check the pump to ensure it spins ok and it's not applying too much resistive load (drag) to the motor causing it to stall at startup. Could be the motor (or start/run cap - but caps normally just fail/blow/open-circuit as you noted) is on it's way out. Unfortunately, the sound of a hum @ stall is not a good story. In the past I've taken a pump apart, cleaned and put back together with good results - still working with the motor years later. Some pumps when they are affected by excessive scale are beyond saving and can actually end up killing the more expensive motor (pumps can be 1/3 or 1/2 the price of a motor) - so you end up with the critical decision of mating a new pump with existing motor, or keep on keeping-on and needing to replace both pump and motor at big $$.
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  • UNMUNM
    The pump is a fluid-o-tech/rotoflow. The main drive shaft on the motor has a slotted end so it can be turned by a screwdriver. Seems good. As I am in the fortunate situation of having a spare pump and motor I will install the spare pump for testing (assuming it fits) and then know for sure whether pump out motor. So I just remove the dome nut to access pump bypass adjustment, hopefully nothing will fly apart when I do.
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  • beanflyingbeanflying
    Setting the pressure relief valve on the pump for NON mains use you will want it running at somewhere over shot pressure. When you have say a regulated 3 Bar input pressure from a properly installed plumbed in machine the pump has to add a nominal 7 Bar extra but when on a tank it needs to provide the entire say 10 Bar. So you will need to adjust the relief valve most likely. If you have one I would set this using a bucket and separate pressure gauge before plumbing into the machine. The motors will be fine on the extra pressure and as suggested above some solutions for a strip and clean or maybe a motor cap.
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  • UNMUNM
    My groups looked pretty clean when I took out tbYhe shower screen and group seal. Mind you I did backflush thoroughly at least four times to get rid of crud build up. Pump swap is not as straightforward as I hoped. 15mm connections on the bezz, 10mm on  the azky. Need at least one reducing coupling. Photo of shower screen fyi. Just lever it out gently, comes out along with the group seal.
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  • UNMUNM
    Two photos looking up into the group from below.
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  • MusclesMuscles
    UNM: Your screens look exactly like the generics on the Bombora site: http://clean-machine.com.au/Coffee-Machine-Shower-Screen-Various-SH-288.html
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  • UNMUNM
    I found a web site that offered a parts manual for sale. Nobody seems to have access to a user manual.
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  • UNMUNM
    Pump definitely not in tip top condition. Split from the motor, it turns, but too stiff to turn by hand. Need to use a spanner. It feels like it turns in steps. So, is it safe to soak the whole thing in citric acid? I figure I should descale it, because I read somewhere that fixes most  problems. Or can I disassemble easily and clean any parts that require it? Anyone got a handy link to manual, or exploded part diagram?
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