After the old forum software breaking in a way that we were unable to fix, we've migrated the site to a new platform.
Some elements aren't working as we'd hoped - some avatars didn't survive the transition, and we're still having issues with attachments that weren't added as inline images, but we're hoping to have that all sorted out soon.
Too late... Just grabbed a 50mm 1.4G! Anyone want a 1.4D going cheap
Morning Brett, as a matter of interest, I own a 1.4 AI manual focus lens, made in Japan in the mid 70's. Great low light lens, ideal for street photography etc, sharp as a tack, wouldn't sell it for quids.
Too late... Just grabbed a 50mm 1.4G! Anyone want a 1.4D going cheap
hi mate, just wondered what made you go for the 1.4G in the end? I've got one and it seems fine, but you mentioned the reviews were pretty average and it's not their cheapest 50mm
I fear the 1.4D from 2004 is out resolved by the bigger sensors. It's not a sharp edge to edge as it was on the D200 or D70! The D is in new condition and has been dry boxed it's whole life so I'm probably not going to sell it... I will run them side by side to be sure when the other arrives.
They get great reviews! Let us know what the distortion is like!
they sure do. The optics are far superior as compared to the 10-24 Nikon. The 8-16 sigma has good optics also but at that wide it's not very usable. Their AF is flaky too. /according to Ken. Here's a couple pics. Raw downloaded to iPhone. No processing. It's probably some of the worst wide angle shots I've taken (in a rush). Lol. But you probably can get an idea on distortion. I'll play around with it more tomorrow and take photos of edges. Pics were at 11mm f2.8. It's a very fast lens compare to sigma and Nikon ultra wides. It's also heavier and more solid than my 18-140. Ps. This is their new product. They have the 11-16 and now this new beast the 11-20.
I'm not a huge fan of ken, he's been caught out more than once. Tthe only way to truly know is to buy the thing and see if it lives up to the hype. Keep us posted mate. My only issue with third party lenses is the accuracy of the autofocus which can now be fine tuned in camera and compatibility moving forward with firmware updates. I've never bought a third party lens but I do like the look of the Sigma 150 to 600.
I'm not a huge fan of ken, he's been caught out more than once. Tthe only way to truly know is to buy the thing and see if it lives up to the hype. Keep us posted mate. My only issue with third party lenses is the accuracy of the autofocus which can now be fine tuned in camera and compatibility moving forward with firmware updates. I've never bought a third party lens but I do like the look of the Sigma 150 to 600.
true that. Thats one thing I need to do for my lenses (fine tune the AF with a chart) but without fine tuning they have been good so far. Reason I've held off so far is that I'm on my fourth d7200 body. The first three for some weird reason had very dirty sensors right out of the box. Not sure what happened there but I returned the previous 3 and then tested the 4th at f22 to ensure there were no spots before I left the shop. The other option was to send in my first body for a clean but I shouldn't have to do that on a new camera right out of he box. Anyways I've got a clean sensor now but I have noticed a tiny spec on the viewfinder. Don't think it's on the mirror or the visible side of the focusing screen but I'm thinking its on the top side of the focusing screen. Bit of a pita but I'll get it sorted when I eventually will need to clean the sensor after some use. Now the funny thing. I got my gear from teds because they a managed to beat all the competitors prices. When I took the first body back to teds to tell them the sensor is dirty the manager looked through the viewfinder and said 'no it's clean'. Where do I begin to tell him how these cameras work. Sheesh. His response was 'I own a dslr'. My response was 'stop the lens down to f22...etc etc etc'. He didn't know what I meant. Eventually we got around to it and thankfully the sales rep (also shoots for money) that served me initially came back from break and we then spoke the same language. Sorted. Now they have 3 bodies to send back to Nikon/supplier for credit. I should have sent this 4th one back to for the spec in he viewfinder but this will happens eventually with use so I traded it off with the fact I don't have to spend heaps of time post processing images with spot removal for a camera right out of the box. See image below (the sky) of how dirty the sensor was.
Most cameras come with some dust on the sensors. I've always used pec-pads and eclipse. Its also why Nikon provide a free sensor cleaning service for the first clean. My most distressing incident was taking the D 200 to the Nikon service here centre in Brisbane's east side for a sensor clean.... it came back with significant dust behind the viewfinder. When questioned they said it was already there and I mustn't have noticed until now. They also refused to rectify the issue saying it was within the limits. I've had a couple of shoddy experiences with them so send anything I need looked at to Nikon in Sydney who are cheaper and better!
Most cameras come with some dust on the sensors. I've always used pec-pads and eclipse. Its also why Nikon provide a free sensor cleaning service for the first clean. My most distressing incident was taking the D 200 to the Nikon service here centre in Brisbane's east side for a sensor clean.... it came back with significant dust behind the viewfinder. When questioned they said it was already there and I mustn't have noticed until now. They also refused to rectify the issue saying it was within the limits. I've had a couple of shoddy experiences with them so send anything I need looked at to Nikon in Sydney who are cheaper and better!
that would have been a pain. Did you get the viewfinder sorted? How much dust out of the box is acceptable?. I counted over 30+ specs when I highlighted visible spots on my images from that first body.
I think the acceptable limit is subjective and relative to their desire to sort the problem. Remember, this is not Nikon but their service agents. Yours also is clearly not acceptable in a new body!
I think the acceptable limit is subjective and relative to their desire to sort the problem. Remember, this is not Nikon but their service agents. Yours also is clearly not acceptable in a new body!
fair enough. Yes mine was unacceptable but all good now. Which sensor cleaner do you recommend Brett? As there is no anti aliasing filter I'm worried touching the sensor itself.
Good discussion. Note there is a good independent servicing mob in Sydney. I can only say this on the basis of one job, but I had a lens repaired & serviced by them in April and they were very good to deal with (talk direct to service tech) and fast. No BS, and lens as good as new. I had spoken to canon (shield your eyes chaps :stir) in Melb but wasnt happy with their telephone advice. A professional photographer friend gave me the name and details of this mob in Sydney, and I went from there. If you ever want the name, just ask.
I'd love the name of the service agent thanks Fresh Coffee. Moreover, I reckon you could print it the thread as we're badly going to run off and buy grinders, tampers and beans from them.... Or will we As I'm pretty regularly the on mod on duty here (light workload) I am want to play fast and loose with the rules when It sums me :stir :rofl: I've had a lens repaired in Sydney by Nikon. It was a glorious example of the 35-70F2.8 Macro. These generally suffer from hazing on internal elements at this age due to a widely established manufacturing issue with the oils used causing mould/hazing. The lens came back like new but you know, it never really shot as clean. Especially when you subject the poor thing to a 36mp sensor at a stupidly high ISO. Remember, I shoot in low light much of the time! I sold it on and bought the 24-120F4 which is so good it's boring. Because of the stabilisation it's brilliant in low-light but the bokeh is less arty. I was leaning towards the 16-35F4 but it too is to good. I'll stick with my 20mmF2.8 until I can afford and then justify the 14-24F2.8. Expect an update on that puppy on the fourth of never... I've no use for that wide.... sadly.
Hey....nth eyre not real sharp viewed here. Much better locally... Why is that? Shield bud intentionally blurred with exception of the eye.
nice pics mate. Love macros. Not sure why they are not that sharp here on the forum. Might be a compression / down sampling thing? I took my wide angle out today too and snapped this up. Need to get used to it. It's not like a 'normal lens' and autofocus is much harder. I use continuous servo autofocus with the back AE/AF set for focus and the shutter button just for a shutter and not autofocus. That way one press of the back button I can focus on a stationary object, then reframe and shoot. Or if I hold down the back button ive got it set to 3D tracking. So in essence I've got AFS single for stationary and AFC/3D set up with a press of a button for action shooting. Some of my candid images of the family came out blurry or my camera focused on the wrong thing while the subject matters were moving (on f2.8 ). All down to user error. Looks like I need to take a different approach to autofocus with the wide lens for candid shots. It's a different beast all together. Did post process the images below to further dramatise the hell of a windy and stormy day we had here down in Melb. Pic is of cherry lake. First pic some Hollywood style HDR. Second pic has some bold grungy type HDR processing and some dehazing to bring out the blue sky from beneath? the clouds. I think it dramatises the scene well. Both pics at 11mm f11. I had the sun in the first pic right above (slightly out of frame) and had minimal glare. I did another shoot with the sun in frame and the glare / flares again were tolerable. Very surprised. Both pics had any distortion removed with dxo optics lens profiles.
final pic is a B&W of my nephew on a hill at the park today I'm really liking this u/wide lens, can make some shots really dramatic and comic. tomorrow I'm going to set aside some time to fine tune the AF on all my lenses and see how they are.
Lovely stuff! I've always found with landscape it's easier to manually focus.
Hi Brett. Have you tried the dottune autofocus fine tune method? http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1187247 I've never used it and always used the trial and error method by taking snaps. I might give this a go. I was going to get around to it today but time just flew out the window.
Errrhhh. Not really on topic but following on from above re straps. You will have to forgive canon camera name in photos, the bag will accept nikon as well :stir Just thought to mention that sometimes its not a great idea to lug the dedicated gear bag around and when o/s there areas where it is inappropriate to show your (large) gear as in have it dangling from your person. So I often leave real gear bag in hotel and only take the set I think I will want on the day. I bought this bag at a market stall, big and sturdy enough for camera and lens, spare battery and other odd bits. It will handle the weight of the full frame and zoom lens.
the pic FC posted of his camera bag reminded me of this one - a real classic [before they became branded] - prob 40-50 years old and originally housed a Leica [not mine].
Beautiful A! New 50mm 1.4G arrived today. Sharp and fast! There's not much in it between the two but I'm enjoying extra speed. The other will sit in the dry box and my FIL may get a nice gift for his D750
Ok so I fine tuned my 3 lenses today using the dottune method and a cross hatch target. Distance was set at 50x the focal length of the length at max aperture. Lens 1: Nikon 35mm f1.8 (prime) Focus confirmations between -2 and +4 Fine tune Value then set to the Midpoint of +1 Lens 2: Tokina 11-20 f2.8 Focus confirmations between 0 to +9, +2 to + 10 and +3 to + 11 for focal lengths of 11, 16 and 20mm. Mid point were averaged across the three focal lengths and I set it to +6 for the fine tune. Lens 3: Nikon 18-140 f3.5-5.6 Similar approach to the above and I set my fine tune to +5 (mid point). Pretty happy for the results. Attached is the tuning target used. Notes: critical focus established in Live view mode zoomed in. I've got my camera set to back button focus Focus mode was AFS centre.
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