My GS Project

Ronin · November 2011

So I picked up the frame from the powder coaters, Inspected it when arrived home. It's now back at the coaters to do properly :head: GGGGGGRRRRRRRRRR Oh well. I have to give Kudos to site sponsor Coffee Parts. I ordered Sunday, got a conformation call Monday morning, parts arrived at my door Tuesday. Fantastic and fast service. Thanks Guys

Ronin · November 2011

Got a call from the powder coaters today. Ready to go............ again. We'll see (I hope so this time) Also got a call from the chrome platers, Ready to go ;D Will pick up next week and post photos when I have the time. Almost re assembly time

jeff · November 2011

Yep, you definitely inspired me! I got it mainly apart, the wiring loom removed, and on trying to drain the steam boiler found it filled with milky, murky water. My boilers look to be a little different than yours. The steam boiler uses a cartridge heater and I don't think it comes apart. The cap looks pretty solidly welded on. On the brew boiler, I really take a 30 mm spanner to that big hex and turn? How much did you have to drink before you had the courage to do that?

Ronin · November 2011

Nice Jeff Seems we should change the heading to 'GS Projects'. :laugh: Steam boiler is much different, not seen one like that before. Brew boiler - Depends what you're drinking :rofl: you might need some extra caffeine to move it. I ended up with a propane burner to heat it up. This helped release the nut. Then turn it. Better done it the brackets (I removed them from the frame) as it gives you some leverage. Pack in some elbow grease too. The nut attaches to a stainless shaft that goes all the way through the boiler and connects to the other nut, meaning you only need to release one nut before it SHOULD come apart. PM me your email address and I'll send you a copy of the original wiring diagram from my machine, as I believe (from my go to man) it is original. I'll be wiring it a little different tho, for safety. I picked up my frame today, much better job, looks good now, different colour than I originally wanted tho. Picking up chrome work Thursday. I started re assembling the smaller pieces on Sunday, so I'm officially in the fun phase

TheLightRoom · November 2011

Ronin - Loving this project, thanks for posting it and pics! Think it's great that you have inspired Jeff to dig his machine out! I've always admired the manual paddle machines (both La Marzocco & Synesso) both from a skills perspective, and also the tactile idea of doing something more to produce espresso than push a button. I never really thought about making steps to acquire one - well till recently anyway. I love LM machines (as many do), and would love to get my hands on a 2-group GS or GS/2 as you have. Great work! I'll be following your progress

Cheers, Nathan.

jeff · November 2011

Thanks for the explanation of what to expect from those 30 mm nuts. I found out that the draw-bolt style that we both have was earlier production, with later ones using the bolt-on cap, similar to that on the steam boiler. Also steam boiler apparently was a not-uncommon fix for stripping the "crown" that was welded into the end of the boiler into which the end-cap bolts threaded. I've been literally having to dissolve "bladder stones" that were too big to fit through the ~1 cm hole. I've been using a roughly 2% citric acid w/v solution, available at home brewing shops, for the descale. There are probably faster acids or concentrations, but I've got time... Speaking of time, I decided I could no longer procrastinate and collected the proper equipment for such a task. I looked at the first photo and decided something was wrong. Let's see, big wrenches, penetrating oil, torch, beer. Hmmm, is it that you shouldn't drink and operate incendiary devices? Was it that I was about to wave a torch over the nut that had been doused in oil? The alcohol in the beer inflammable? The beer, yes, that was the problem. Hard to find good Australian beer here, but I did find a more appropriate lubricant... As fun as the torch would have been, the large wrench and a heavy rubber mallet took the nut off quite easily. I'm not sure your dispersion heads are significantly different than mine. I've got some of the holes on one that come up through the back side of the "sockets" for the removal pin spanner. I may try to take apart one of the groups tonight. While I probably could get away without re-chroming, there are a couple gouges on one of the groups where the cover scraped against the group, as well as some spots on the valve nuts where it looks like pliers were used instead of a spanner. At least you can get powder coat redone; someone screwing up the castings prior to plating scares me. Sounds like yours is going back together soon!

Ronin · November 2011

Thanks The Light Room Glad you are enjoying it, I am too ;D Time you started looking for yours to restore Good progress Jeff I believe the brew boilers with the end caps are earlier ones also, and difficult to re assemble, fun fun fun. My problem with the dispersion heads is that the hole has broken through. Would be good to know if yours are the same. I didn't notice until after cleaning. I believe it shouldn't be a problem. I'd still rechrome it Jeff, I think you'll always look at the imperfections and think "should have'. Just my opinion. Castings can be fixed with the right shills or people who have them, like a fitter and turner. I wouldn't be too worried about it, but I hear your concerns. Hopefully start putting back together next w/e, subject to parts arriving how far I get.

Ronin · December 2011

So after planing to get the groups on the boiler this weekend, well plans rarely go to plan do they. Found 7 of the retaining nuts stripped and only had 2 spare. :head: So I replaced all the o rings and inspected all chrome work, all well finished except for the water level sight glass outside ring. There seems to be a build up in the thread and I can not get it on. Need to think of a way around that one. I'll chat to the fitter at work and the chrome platers for ideas. Getting a good handle on the anti vac and over pressure valves, and the plumbing. Wiring is another story but that will come the more I investigate. Replacement wiring and upgrades shouldn't be to hard but I've not looked into PID wiring as yet

jeff · December 2011

Ah, I see the difference in the dispersion cones. Yes, mine are not drilled through for the removal tool, just dimples. Finally got my cones and blocks out -- bolting them down to a piece of 3/4" (20 mm) ply using the three cap screws that hold the group together and a set of nuts and washers, then clamping the board to the workbench. Lots of heat helped "melt" the muck. Once warmed up enough, there wasn't a lot of force required. In retrospect, I wish I had used a 3 mm bolt for the pin to remove the cone as the 4 mm one did cause some damage, both being too big, and with some slippage. Pressing down on the end of my cone-removal tool, which pushed the bolt more firmly into the dimple, I think helped removing the second one. RAL 2002 on the upper frame was a nice match to the side panels I have, though, like you, I need to go back to the powder coater. Using black hammertone on the rest of the frame was a "win-win" as it did a good job hiding the irregularity left by corrosion, especially on the upper back rail, which serves as a drip/drain tray for the cups. I hope yours is cooperating for you!

Ronin · December 2011

Ahh retrospect and hindsight.......... If only. Good progress there Jeff. I managed to clean out the excess chrome from the thread in the water level sight glass ring and it went together really well. Had a win there Putting the dispersion cone and block back into the group 1 was successful..... Easy. Block 2, well lets say not so easy. Either I overtightened it or there was a fracture in it, and it cracked and twisted badly. Removed it from the block this morning, and did a little panel beating to straighten. Finished in 3 pieces :mad: Silver soldered them back together and spend the time my boss was out filing them back & drilling out the holes. Came out a little rough, but should work I think. I'll continue with this piece and look for a replacement, I think it'll be hard to come by though. It seems a rebuild project needs a problem solver, fix one thing and move on th the next thing that unexpectedly needs fixing.

Ronin · December 2011

Got the groups on and started the jigsaw puzzle of pipe work. Starting to look like a coffee machine again.

Koffee_Kosmo · December 2011

Great progress on an absolutely gorgeous job so far I am quivering with expectations on the soon to be finished and working machine Oooohh yea :thumb: KK

Brett H · December 2011

Lookin' great there Ronin! Can't wait to see how it comes together.

Ronin · December 2011

Thanks guys Been challenging, and when you think you're on the downhill run, something else pops up. Like today for example, cut some gaskets for the brew boiler end plates. Almost forgot to put in the element before assembling. Then found one thread on the element damaged, guess that's why there was so much thread tape on it. I think I've a solution that doesn't involve removing the end plates though.

Muscles · December 2011

Awesome job so far! You guys are killing me with your resto's :thumb:

jeff · December 2011

Looking great! Man, that's one shiny boiler. Did you polish it? You're continuing to inspire me through my own "dark moments" -- Thanks!

Ronin · December 2011

on 1324515605:

Looking great! Man, that's one shiny boiler. Did you polish it? You're continuing to inspire me through my own "dark moments" -- Thanks!

Not polished, just clean

. I did use a super fine wire wool though. Gave it a lightly polished look without scratching, did the copper pipes too. A coarser wire wool would leave scratch marks. What dark moments Jeff? Would be nice to know I'm not the only one who has 'challenging' moments. Think I found a solution to my elements damaged thread. As it is damaged near the tightening end, I thought of a longer nut or a washer, got a brass washer and seems to have done the trick. Just waiting for the water pressure test now, fingers crossed. That's not for a while yet.

borat123 · December 2011

Looking great! Love the curved shape of the groups, 'sprouting' out from the boiler.

Ronin · December 2011

Thanks Borat Got home from work today with all relevant tools and wiring for the rest of the job, I think. Was looking over parts and notices an element nut missing, must be here somewhere. They are an odd size and I can't find them anywhere yet. Hope it turns up.

TheLightRoom · December 2011

Ronin - Defiantly shaping up mate! I can only imagine the amount of grime and gunk on the cloths from cleaning! Cheers, TLR

Ronin · January 2012

Decided not to risk the brew element with the dodgy thread under pressure. Going to get it fixed or a new one if can't be. The company is on hols to next Monday tho :doh: Will be there first thing Monday morning. Had an issue with the PID probe too, seems it sticks out too far and the front panel won't go on with it in. The Element place also does PID stuff, so I'll be looking into that next Monday also. Got some thermal cut out fuses and will be wiring them into the machine too. Good advice there I think. Put the water inlet valve back together, was difficult so pulled it apart again. Not aligned and damaged the washer and spring. :tearhair: Been slow progress past few weeks. Was hoping for more to be done, but need some things and everything manufacturing closes over Christmas, guess that's why I'm on holidays. Just not convenient

Ronin · January 2012

Ok for the forth time typing this we'll see if it works. New brew element picked up and installed. Water inlet valve fixed and installed. Pressure switch bracket made and switch installed. Vacuum breaker and OPV sorted and installed. Wiring well under way and on the down hill run. Groups installed except for lever and group caps. Stainless panels brushed look cleaned up (except front panel) and looking better, might spend some more time on these yet. Just need to sort out the PID thermocouple as the one I have is too long and fouls on the front panel. Can't up load photos still as yet, will when I can

Ronin · January 2012

Thermal cut out fuse on the steam boiler aka Paul Pratt style, also one on eht brew boiler

Ronin · January 2012

Vacuum breaker valve on left with 90deg elbow and OPV on the right

Ronin · January 2012

So far so good. This was before I installed the water inlet valve, if you look where the drain tray will go (next to the hammer :D)

borat123 · January 2012

on 1327903177:

Thermal cut out fuse on the steam boiler aka Paul Pratt style, also one on eht brew boiler

Interesting thermal cutout. How does it work; is it measuring the actual temp of the skin of the boiler? I remember on the Cimbali two group I had, there was a probe mounted through the element base plate, protruding into the boiler. It fed the temp via coiled up wire into the thermal cutout switch that had a plate that warped when hot and broke the circuit.

Ronin · January 2012

Thats right, measuring the boiler surface and has a trip switch that trips at?, hum can't remember what temp (120deg C, I think, must check). Just like the one on your house, easily reset. I had to use a thin wire to tie it on to the boilers as there is no other way to do it easily, recommended to me by my go to guy.

borat123 · January 2012

on 1327914694:

Thats right, measuring the boiler surface and has a trip switch that trips at?, hum can't remember what temp (120deg C, I think, must check). Just like the one on your house, easily reset. I had to use a thin wire to tie it on to the boilers as there is no other way to do it easily, recommended to me by my go to guy.

Maybe try gluing it on(?) I found some new 'special' glue in the adhesives section of Bunnings the other day, that secures plastic to all types of metal, and is flexible, and heat resistant to a high temp. Comes in a small tube and was less than ten bucks

(the blue one) I used it to stick a transformer onto the inside of the Urania case, and it seemed to work pretty well.

Ronin · February 2012

Interesting idea gluing it on. It's brass on the bottom, and not sure if the glue would disrupt the heat transfer. Prob wouldn't do that much. I was being a good apprentice and following the masters advice http://www.flickr.com/photos/paul_pratt/3746043752/in/photostream Look closely and you can see the thin wire holding it on. Paul Pratt really does do fantastic work IMOP. I hope to do the machine justice

Ronin · February 2012

on 1329038758:

Dropped over today and Trust I did not make too much extra work for the man. Nothing that didn't need done anyway mate 1: Always be aware re rental places and their compliance with the relevant electrical act. RCD apparently does not work and from what I could quickly assess; Some very dodgy brothers work re wiring and lack of earth and under rated power cables. Spoke to landlord and showed him some more problems, lets just say we're moving soon. That being said, some great work on the coffee machine... Thanks I will let the man in question post as I don't want to steal any thunder, but lets just say we discovered a few things other than just wiring and he does have a bit to tidy up... But once he does, it will last a life time.

Wiring was always going to be my downfall, hence the visit with AM. I want to do it myself but AM gave me some great tips and techniques to do the job better (read 'correct' ;D) A few upgraded components needed and better connections that are soldered for a better and legal job (and earthed properly) Need to set the OPV valves also, I assumed they would come set, but.............. Going to ask about that one as they're brand new. Thanks for your time yesterday AM, I hope you weren't in trouble when you got home. Time really slips away when playing with shinny toys.

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