My GS Project

borat123

on 1316926195:

Think I'll need to invest in a propane burner to loosen it up.

Best investment I ever made.....    Twenty something bucks from Bunnings.  I also got a can of penetrant / release agent which worked really well when I was trying to open the boiler.

Ronin

Where do I get those AM? Off to 'That hardware shop' tomorrow They stock almost everything else, including the kitchen sink

borat123

I managed to strip the thread off one fitting - thank $%*&! it stripped there instead of what it came out of........ Maybe the hardness of the fittings is less(?)

Ronin

Note to self (and others) When buying propane burner, get the sparker too.  :-\

Ronin

After a frustratingly unproductive day, I need a coffee break. So here I am. Got the flint for the propane burner this morning. Remover end plates from brew boiler to find All kinds of flakey scaley rubbish. Not to hard with the heat. My nemesis however is the broken 4 way cross fitting. Easy out, heat and what little brute strenght I have seems not enough. Idaes are welcome................please :-\

Koffee_Kosmo

Put up a photo of the broken fitting (the bit that is stuck) And post hole sises so I know what tools will fit to be used KK

beanflying

Hope these make sense to the thread. Recovered out of the archive. "Good idea KK My photography is not the best but here they are." - Ronin "There is only about 3mm sticking out of the boiler, but it's in broken segments. I can't get vice grips to hold. Tried Easy out, it won't budge, even with WD40 and heat. The hole in the boiler has a tapered section at the bottom, so drilling it out would be a tricky option. Looks to have been leaking for a while, but probably not fixed as it wouldn't come out. Also looks to have been cracked (causing the leak) and probably causing it to break on me. Here is a link to the offending part, now in stainless steel, not brass. http://www.espressoparts.com/MZ_21 " - Ronin "Problem with the easy out is that it is tapered. This can result in it forcing the part you are trying to extract into a tighter fit as you screw it in. an alternative is to drill a hole slightly smaller than a hex key force that in with a press or hammer, then use that as an extractor. Size of hole and key are obviously critical to avoid the same problem. I have a set of 1/2in drive hex keys that have worked <br />well in the past, as they can be used with an impact driver. Another caution, when dealing with soft metal, you can bend it with excessive use of force (but then you probably knew that). Also, alternating heat and cold can help break the scale/corrosion, not sure if there is room in your freezer, but worth a try." - UMN "If freezer room is an issue and you've no access to LN then a couple of large blocks of ice could provide instant shock to the area and brittle the area. I'm sure KK has done lots of this in his time and will one along with a good idea for the handyman whose wife doesn't want the roast tainted with boiler. ;D " - BrettH "I have done this in the past Get a hack saw blade and grind it down approx 100mm in length to 2/3mm in height Use it to cut the inside of the fitting Cut with care to almost the thread in 2 to 3 places By squeezing it it will break and come apart, sometimes heat also helps" -  (see photo ) KK "Some good ideas here guys Thanks I guess that's the difference, I work with wood, not much expierence with stuck metal bits. Will report back when I've had a chance to try." - Ronin

Ronin

Ha ha. Nemesis defeated  ;D Next job - frame to powder coaters and chrome bits off to the platers

Ronin

Note to all coffee machine owners 'CLEAN YOUR MACHINES REGULARLY' Which one will I be drinking from...........................

Brett H

Okay, so what will you do with those?  Sandblasting/rechroming or something even more special.... GOLD???

Ronin

No not gold. Started in a bead blaster with glass beads (choices at work are plastic, glass and garnet) Planning on polishing out all the casting marks and re chroming them. The groups are only polished on the exposed faces (those that can be seen when the covers are on), I was a little disappointed in this, so I'm going to polish all external faces, cause I can  ;D (and I have the necessary tools at work)

Brett H

Nice!  Why doesnt my workplace have cool toys like yours Ronin?

Ronin

on 1319092001:

Nice!  Why doesnt my workplace have cool toys like yours Ronin?

Cause you don't work in a foundry  :P Not always cool Brett, steel foundries get hot, especially when the steel is melted at about 1550 deg C.

Koffee_Kosmo

on 1319100108:

Cause you don't work in a foundry  :P Not always cool Brett, steel foundries get hot, especially when the steel is melted at about 1550 deg C.

I am an old BHP lad I still talk about it, because I loved that job in Newcastle KK

jeff

on 1316416184:

As there are a few handles / knobs and paddles that look a bit tired... Some custom wood work would set it right off.

If you don't have a local resource, Cannonfodder (Dave Stephens) over on Home-Barista does custom wood for espresso machines. I don't know what he charges, but his work looks beautiful to me.

Ronin

on 1319111319:

Love to hate machining castings.. Especially Cast Iron  Spent way to long at a Foundry or two on the south side and one did a heap of train wheels...  Now, back on track... When will your system be ready for testing R ?

BK's at Runcorn I'm thinking AM. I'm northside. A little premature there re testing AM. Still in bits, although they are mostly cleaner than they were. Looking into powder coating the frame and have decided on colour scheme from the first series GS. There is a 1 group that has just been finished that looks fantastic, and will match my grinder too. But you'll have to wait for that  :P And re chroming of course. I'm a little disappointed in the exposed group castings. Brass isn't to hard to work with tho, so I'll get them to a good standard before chroming all bits. Have some possible drama with both of the dispersion plates. Extra holes. Currently investigating if they should be fixed or not. I'm leaning towards yes, but that's a tricky job (says the welder, not me)

Ronin

on 1319153789:

If you don't have a local resource, Cannonfodder (Dave Stephens) over on Home-Barista does custom wood for espresso machines. I don't know what he charges, but his work looks beautiful to me.

Thanks Jeff Might do something myself first to see how it looks. I've got some Rosewood that looks good, but might clash with colours. Time will tell

Ronin

Forgot to mention Elements are tested (by electrician at work) and should work. 1300 watt brew boiler 2000 watt steam boiler Around 16 amps total, so a 20 amp will cover it nicely I think

jeff

The lever at the front of the right side, is that the manual fill?

Ronin

That's right Jeff. Hold the toggle switch to engage the pump and the lever on bottom right for the water valve, in original condition that is.

Ronin

I've been told that it won't make a difference, and not to worry about it AM. I'll try it as is, then if it's a problem they are easily removed after re assembly.

Ronin

Perhaps, but the other side to the hole is the recess for removal of the plate. Don't really want to fill those now do we  or they will never be cleaned again.

Ronin

Frame work dropped in for powder coating today. Getting chrome plate quote also, this is the one I'm dreading. Worth the money, but could be expensive. Find out tommorow

Ronin

So... you can get coloured chrome, who knew Black chrome looking good. Not going to use it, but it looks good

Ronin

Frame striped and ready for powder coating, should be ready early next week. Chrome work underway, but probably 3 weeks away. Insert finger tapping impatient Ronin here. You must be patient for good work

borat123

Welcome to the "it'll be ready next week" club.....    :rofl:

Ronin

on 1320387945:

Welcome to the "it'll be ready next week" club.....    :rofl:

Nice, thanks Borat  It'll give me time to finish sourcing the parts I need, elusive things they are.

jeff

on 1320391571:

It'll give me time to finish sourcing the parts I need, elusive things they are.

I have to thank you for the inspiration to continue on my quest, though those few last parts are perhaps the scariest thing to me about a restoration. Looking forward to seeing some photos of that first shot! OK, I'll also admit I'm envious that you have 220 already available to you. Between an already-full 1970s main panel and the joys of obtaining local government permits, I think it is going to be as much of a challenge to pull 220 back to the "altar" in a San Francisco Victorian as it will be to rebuild one of these machines.

Ronin

on 1320424882:

I have to thank you for the inspiration to continue on my quest, though those few last parts are perhaps the scariest thing to me about a restoration.

I glad to be an inspiration for you Jeff. It wasn't my intention when starting this thread, was just to let people in on my adventure, but I'm happy to have helped you indirectly. Here in Aus we have 240 VAC main power, everything runs on it (including Marzocco's ;D) I'm hoping to be close to the first shots around or just after Christmas (holidays and spare time), we'll see though, got a few things to sort out

UNM

on 1320424882:

OK, I'll also admit I'm envious that you have 220 already available to you. Between an already-full 1970s main panel and the joys of obtaining local government permits, I think it is going to be as much of a challenge to pull 220 back to the "altar" in a San Francisco Victorian as it will be to rebuild one of these machines.

When I lived in California, all the houses I rented had 220 volts available for the tumble dryer. That is what I used for my UK appliances.  Not necessarily safe to just wire it in, but it may not be as hard to get the power you need as you might think. I'm sure a local electrician will keep you right.