Lever project - Urania 1 group

Ronin · September 2011

on 1316851341:

OK, item done... Ya need to be a little clearer as to measurements :-) With Lengths one need to be clear as to the start and stop... Never assume. As with bends, the issue is around the measurement from the inside or the outside of the bend ::) But I doubt in this case that it is critical.. Any way, only had some 4.7mm bar so machined it down on the ends and threadded and then added the bend... Ya 35mm may be a bit longer ;D Depending on where you measure from :-*

Just a tip AM ALWAYS WORK TO THE DRAWING Part is dimensioned on the outside, so work to the dimensions there I thought the drawing was clear, just missing the rod OD and the rad dimension. But again, we get down to the finicky bits that make us anal about the things we do Like coffee

borat123 · September 2011

Ronin, judging by all the smileys etc, I think AM was just wanting to be helpful...

I'm happy that he was kind enough to bother to undertake such a fiddly job, and my drawing was admittedly knocked up in powerpoint and pretty basic.. Anyway guys - I need some advice please. The setup on the Urania at the moment is an outlet at the top of the boiler runing to a t-piece, with one side going to the over pressure safety valve, and the other to the pstat. I'm thinking of replacing the T with a 3-way and adding an anti-vac into the mix. (please see another of my dodgy drawings below

). What do you think - any issue with having all three on the same line? (Or should I put it somewhere else?)

cheers.

Koffee_Kosmo · September 2011

I like the look of this none and it looks like it belongs to your machines design (see photo) KK

borat123 · September 2011

Thanks KK. It's a work of art..... Where'd you find that one? And, do think having the pstat and anti-vac together is ok?

Koffee_Kosmo · September 2011

on 1316929647:

Thanks KK. It's a work of art..... Where'd you find that one? And, do think having the pstat and anti-vac together is ok?

Just did an Google images search http://moonlightbrass.tradeindia.com/Exporters_Suppliers/Exporter35036.755432/Brass-3-Way-Fitting.html KK

borat123 · September 2011

on 1316930264:

The all come off the tank, so it does not matter too much. Main thing is that many should be as vertical as you can make them. As to the Anti-vac make sure you use a "spill cup" to reduce any spillage from running out and around all your new work..

A tea light right AM? Now where did I see that thread...

Ronin · September 2011

on 1316928205:

Ronin, judging by all the smileys etc, I think AM was just wanting to be helpful...

And I was just making fun of him

Sorry if my humor is lost online, it can be quite dry

borat123 · September 2011

Sounds like a latent humour failure somewhere along the line.... ?type=display

Hmmm, where's that fishbone chart for some root-cause analysis...?

borat123 · September 2011

Think I may have found a local company who for a reasonable price can digitally print onto glass, and then do a masking behind that so that light only shines through the logo & circle in the centre. I think my paint has faded a heap over 45 years. I've seen a pic of the original in the Faema book and it has a strong gold tint to it, whereas my old one looks like a tan brown.... I might get it done to match the pic from the book which looks a whole lot better anyway.

borat123 · September 2011

Anyone had any experience using a combination safety & anti-vac valve? Like this:

I'm thinking it would save me a lot of stuffing around with more fittings / adaptors and potential sources of leaks... I don't want to fork over the dollars though and end up with a sticky anti-vac, and then have to go back to the original plan. I've had problems before with the anti-vac's that are not teflon. thanks.

Koffee_Kosmo · September 2011

All I know is from another application in the automotive field that the combination safety valve works with relative reliability & longevity All automotive brake systems have one Now I don't know if that translates to a coffee machine but hey I thought I would mention it KK A bit of easy reading on combo valves http://www.jsfstainless.com/pdf/s2 vessel protection/S2-09-03.05.pdf

borat123 · September 2011

thanks AM, cheers

borat123 · September 2011

:D :D ha, it looks like evidence of my stilsons work has disappeared with the internet problems....

borat123 · September 2011

Got some news today, all the spare parts and gaskets / seals etc have departed, and are on the way in fedex boxes. They should arrive by Oct 7th. All the stuff at the platers has moved up the queue and starts being stripped next week. The re-built steam pipe had the old fittings brazed on and was dropped there too. It should all be done by about the 14th. The 3 way valve rod repair didn't take, so I had a replica done up in brass on the lathe. The glass has been left at (funnily enough) the glass printing place, and should be ready in a couple of weeks. Ordered a combo safety & anti-vac from Chris @ Barazzi, so I won't be needing a cross fitting and a bunch of adapters. Great service, ordered yesterday & arrived this afternoon! I also got a 1/4" pipe bender (another cheapy from Ebay), to bend up the replacement tubing for the new pstat.

Lacehim · September 2011

$110 for a safety valve! Wow. Are these safety valve/antivac "all in one's" new? I've never seen them before.

borat123 · September 2011

I hadn't come across the combo ones before either. Not sure if they're 'new' or not. It certainly saved me a lot of extra fittings and adaptors, which goes a fair way to off-setting the extra cost. (not to mention the less fittings & joints the better

Koffee_Kosmo · September 2011

on 1317286815:

I hadn't come across the combo ones before either. Not sure if they're 'new' or not. It certainly saved me a lot of extra fittings and adaptors, which goes a fair way to off-setting the extra cost. (not to mention the less fittings & joints the better

I had reason to open up my BZ40 as my Cigar controller blew Had a crema member visitor & all I could offer was siphon Long story short it turns out that the BZ40 has the very same dual safety & anti-vac valve fitted or looks very close KK

borat123 · September 2011

Anyone know where I might go to get some old style dome head bolts? Like this:

Either style is probably ok - looking for a set of three. I had three different style of bolt come out of the group head :o

borat123 · September 2011

on 1317298513:

it turns out that the BZ40 has the very same dual safety & anti-vac valve fitted or looks very close KK

Yes, it was a genuine Bezzera part that arrived.... cheers.

Ronin · September 2011

Take them into a fasteners shop, not just any hardwear. Is there one close to you? Worsed case senearo would be a machine shop custom job, but I really think they would be off the shelf.

borat123 · September 2011

thanks guys. I've already been to coventry fasteners here in Adl, but they don't stock the old style dome heads. I'm trying to get a set of three the same. At the moment they have a different head on each of them. Yes, I'm happy enough to chrome them up but I don't have a set of three to work with... I thought maybe there was somewhere that specialised in vintage or second hand nuts & bolts. cheers.

Koffee_Kosmo · September 2011

on 1317341776:

Anyone know where I might go to get some old style dome head bolts? Either style is probably ok - looking for a set of three. I had three different style of bolt come out of the group head :o

Will something like this be OK http://www.probolt-australia.com/Products/Stainless_Steel_Bolts_Dome_Head image.php?width=210&filename=WebCat-0005001a0002.jpg&category=0005001a0002

image.php?width=210&filename=WebCat-0005001a0002.jpg&category=0005001a0002

KK

Lacehim · September 2011

Locally I found a nice stainless steel bolt shop. They seemed to have everything I ever wanted and I could by 1 or as many as I wanted.

I found coventry fasterners locally here didn't stock much in the way of stainless stuff.

beanflying · September 2011

Lost posts sorry they are out of sequence. "I got some hard drawn copper tube and had another go at re-doing the bends for a new steam pipe. It was harder to bend but the thicker wall made for better curves with less distortion - I think this one is even better. Paid a visit to an aircon guy this morning who removed the old fittings, then silver soldered them back onto the new pipe. It will need a bit of filing to smooth off the solder but should look good when it's done. The oxy temps made a big difference compared to my Bunnings propane bottle... eh KK

Then dropped it into the plater / polishers for polishing and chroming." Borat123 "Posted this morning.. As to the other bits you sent... Beans are always good ;D As to the two valves... One is a possible repair, the other was a complete write off and NOTHING to be salvaged. The mini anti vac, should be OK.." - AM "Glad to hear the beans are good

The parts are all yours - maybe good for a spare sometime...<br /><br />cheers, Stuart" - Borat123 "I have a confession to make... A horrible dirty little secret...... Those of you with weak stomach's, look away now.... :o :o

It was cemented into place with years of caked on scale. Heating, penetrant, nothing would loosen it until the stillsons came out to play. Unfortunately they left their mark... But good news! The entire part in the pic is available new And bad news... The thread on the other bit from where it came was stripped too... but wait, there's more good news! The stripped thread on the other part was not totally destroyed; it just contained a heap of what looked like extra brass filling in between the thread, and only on a small section. I had a tap run though the first centimetre or so, and wallah, good as new! The moral of the story, get the decaling done first before trying to undo fittings.." - Borat123

Koffee_Kosmo · September 2011

on 1317341776:

Anyone know where I might go to get some old style dome head bolts? Either style is probably ok - looking for a set of three. I had three different style of bolt come out of the group head :o

There is another way it can be done Use a threaded stud and a hex cap nut

KK

borat123 · September 2011

Thats a great idea! Thanks KK, I'd never thought of solving it that way. Would you use loctite as a way to permanently attach the nut to become the new bolt head? Obviously you'd want the whole lot to turn when trying to remove the bolt at some point in the future...

borat123 · September 2011

:o :o Ahh, my dirty little secret has returned. I knew it wouldn't remain a secret for long.... :D

beanflying · September 2011

on 1317367814:

:o :o Ahh, my dirty little secret has returned. I knew it wouldn't remain a secret for long.... :D

Was worth finding too ;D With loctite they are not all the same some are different shear strengths from just a help right up to get out the torch and long bar to undo me. I normally keep a couple of different ones depending on the task I am using it for. Most with the application of heat will soften if you need to get them undone in the future.

borat123 · September 2011

on 1317362574:

There is another way it can be done Use a threaded stud and a hex cap nut KK

Ok, so I've been to Coventry with the original bolt and they matched it to 'Grade 304 St/Stl Hex Hd setscrew M6x35mm ibcGetAttachment.jsp?cItemId=46860&label=IBE&appName=IBE

ibcGetAttachment.jsp?cItemId=46860&label=IBE&appName=IBE

So now I've found a M6x40 stud. The extra 5mm being for the length taken up by the nut.... Do you think the thread on the stud is the same as the 'setscrew' above - I'm guessing yes if they're both M6 (?)

And Coventry have a chrome plated dome nut that looks the part:

What do you think? PS. Thanks AM, your latest masterpiece arrived in the post today

borat123 · September 2011

on 1317381197:

But what is the PITCH... 1.0 OR 0.75 The pitch is important and critical. Many assume there is just one pitch. But for many reasons there is at least two in the smaller sizes and can be more for other sizes. In brief a Coarse and a Fine thread and in may areas where there is a need for high strength, the option of a finer thread is used...

Thanks AM. Hmmm, just as I thought. I have no idea... :D :D I checked their website and the 'Boltmasters metric coarse internal thread dimensions' pdf file, shows M6 with a pitch of 1.0. I'm not sure if this applies to studs(?) http://www.boltmasters.com.au/wawcs0142991/Technical-Information.html As to the pitch on the bolt from Coventry I couldn't find any more info. Maybe if I called them up or went back for another visit with the part number (6X35MG304SS), they'd tell me.

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